Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025 Hits and Misses
That’s a complete wrap on Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025, with Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant of Coperni taking the fashion pack to Disneyland Paris to “magically” round out the fashion festivities. Since September 23, a total of 66 physical runway shows and 40 presentations have taken place within the City of the Light over the past week, making the Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025 season a one for the books.
Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025
Mid-afternoon on Friday September 27, with a wildly star-studded cast including Gigi Hadid, Hedi Klum, Marcia Cross and Anok Yai (as the bride), Guram Gvasalia staged his latest Vetements collection, inspired by the Paris underground. Against a romantic and candle-lit backdrop of the Château de Bagatelle, Victoria Beckham presented her Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025 offering of sculptural breast plates, mixed print dresses, and cut-out tailoring.
Andreas Kronthaler brought punk to Paris for his Vivienne Westwood showcase while Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk served up chocolate leathers that looked like butter at Hermès (and not even a PETA protester could distract from superb craftsmanship). Come nightfall on Saturday September 28, it was time to bare witness to the sophomore collection of Seán McGirr as McQueen creative director. Inside Paris’ École des Beaux-Arts, the Irish designer paid homage to the Alexander McQueen Fall 1994 collection, razor-sharp tailored suiting and Celtic influences.
Come Sunday, all eyes were on Alessandro Michele as he staged his debut runway show as Valentino creative director. Models paraded Michele’s designs of sumptuous fabrics, cascading ruffles, sequins, and bow detailing around a draped set and walked on a floor of broken mirrors. Closing out the weekend, Isabel Marant confirmed that the western trend is set to regain its momentum for Spring 2025, with a collection boasting fringe jackets, studded bags, and suede pieces.
Monday commenced with an open-air show from Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week. Oversized bags, suits, round form plush jackets in pastel colors, and splashes of red were consistent throughout McCartney’s lineup. Gabriela Hearst ditched New York for Paris this season, showcasing her creations on the Left Bank. Eclectic knits, sheer sheaths, and crinkled gold separates took the runway, next to sophisticated tailoring and some Western influence. To a remix of Gimmie More by Britney Spears, models at Balenciaga walked out onto an elevated catwalk, inspired by a dining table. Balenciaga creative director Demna, experimented with hoodies and denim, transforming jeans into gaiters and showing oversized sweatshirts with slogans that read “Fashion Designer”.
On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel (still without a creative director) ventured back to the Grand Palais. The Chanel Fashion Creation Studio team, gave us charming 1920s-style collars and classic tweeds that honored the brand’s rich heritage, while ostrich feather trim and delicate sheer looks floated past guests towards the end of the show. The finale was topped off with a live performance from Riley Keough, who gave attendees a rendition of Prince’s When Doves Cry, sat perched on a swing inside a vast white birdcage. At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada doubled down on the no-pants look for another season. Nicolas Ghesquière honored the rich Louis Vuitton heritage with a runway inspired by the French fashion house’s signature trunks. Ghesquière’s lineup featured open peplum shirts, flowing silk dresses, oversized shoulder pads, and patterns by artist Laurent Grasso.
Scroll for part two of theFashionSpot’s hits and misses of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025, all in accordance with our unfiltered forum members:
All the Hits & Misses From Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025
HIT | Louis Vuitton
“Go off and show off, Nicolas! Let the girls know you can challenge taste without it being ugly. It looked expensive, it didn’t look tortured. Bravo!” [reese06]
“I LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVED IT. The soundtrack, the trunks as a runway. I loved the footwear, the bags, and the accessories. Ghesquiere is hitting his stride, I am so excited. I loved this collection, and I usually feel a way about what he’s been doing but I love, love, loved all of it.” [jeremydante]
“Great and surprising collection from Nicolas! Despite the layering in the styling, the amount of flow made it so enjoyable. Seeing those fabrics floating as the girls walked was fabulous!” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Chanel
“Oh how the mighty have fallen…” [Frederic01]
“The set alone is a perfect display of the brand without a creative director: EMPTY! At this point, just give the CD position to anyone with a name because this cannot work for another season. Will it sell? Of course, it will, but it’s not sustainable.” [Salvatore]
“They are desperately in need of new creative director.” [Olaffo]
See all the looks from the Chanel Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Miu Miu
“My biggest fear happened: Miu Miu has become ‘The Lotta Volkova Show’. Is Miuccia even involved in the creative process anymore? It just looks like Lotta went to the archives, pulled a lot of stuff, styled the whole thing with some logo merch, and job done.” [Lola701]
“Styling is 50% of the brand now, and I just find it stupid. Just stupid.” [yslforever]
“I’m really annoyed by all the gimmicks – celebrities, styling, film. The clothes have nothing to say, honestly (and we can say the same about Miuccia).” [thiago]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | McQueen
“1000x better than Seán McGirr’s debut.” [justpassingthrough]
“This is light years away from that heinous debut. It’s unexpectedly good. It’s not on Lee’s (or even Burton’s) level, but it’s was a good collection and a good show. He should’ve dumped the heavy platforms in favour of sleek stilettos and “floating” heels, but one thing at a time.” [LadyJunon]
“For me this show was a massive improvement from his debut, massive. We can all agree that we will never get McQueen in the dark version of yore, that’s a thing of the past. But I thought that McGirr this time got his s**t together and delivered a much more focused and commercially appealing collection.” [bc collector]
See all the looks from the McQueen Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Valentino
“It feels very déjà-vu and I blame the excessive styling. I believe without the amount of lace gloves, piercings, and better casting, it would’ve felt less Michele and more Garavani.” [thiago]
“Michele almost fooled me with that first look. The most anticipated show of the season and the most flop one. He confirmed he is a one-trick pony and has the most one-dimensional vision ever.” [FashionPower]
“No evolution. Gucci 2.0.” [Grets]
See all the looks from the Valentino Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Balenciaga
“Same shtick, different season. The sooner Balenciaga and Demna part ways the better. Absolutely cannot wait to move on from this monstrosity of a direction. This whole streetwear aesthetic for Balenciaga feels beyond tired, dated, and overplayed in 2024.” [vogue28]
“Why do we exist in a world where this vision of Balenciaga is tolerated…especially by luxury consumers?” [GERGIN]
“So pedestrian and basic. Remember when Balenciaga was synonymous with chic, fashion-forward clothes?” [tourbillions]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Yohji Yamamoto
“Truly stunning. Seriously can’t stop looking at this collection. This is how you do real punk, kids, unlike any Hedi Slimane or Marc Jacobs take on it. I feel it like a contemporary, more sculptural Vivienne Westwood.” [philophile]
“I can’t imagine the Paris fashion week without Yohji and the lovely Hôtel De Ville. Hands down one of the best collections this season!” [Kanzai]
“Truly gorgeous. The master can do no wrong even if it’s just a little expansion of his usual vocabulary. In the sea of pretentious fashion, Yohji remains true to himself. A feast to be savored!” [dancv]
See all the looks from the Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Pierre Cardin
“That looks like an Emily in Paris collection. Dreadful, abysmal… a caricature.” [thiago]
“This is very bad.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]
“Clown, clown, clown with a phone, another clown…” [miumeow]
See all the looks from the Pierre Cardin Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Comme des Garçons
“Rei Kawakubo should be careful at this point not to ruin her amazing legacy. This is tragic.” [90sfan]
“A collection of clown costumes by a once great designer.” [avonlea002]
“She’s been doing these ugly sacks/blobs for 10 years or more. It’s not gonna happen, Rei.” [Alquimista]
See all the looks from the Comme des Garçons Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Carven
“Not sure what happened here. I loved Louise Trotter’s first two collections for Carven. Everything here just looks off.” [tatouejeremie]
“I only see complacency here. Paris has been a disappointment. Nobody is trying anything new.” [Alquimista]
“I love what she’s done with Carven, but this collection feels a bit too complicated. Some of the silhouettes are too sloppy. It would have been a lot better if she showed more knitwear, some structured pieces.” [Kennnnn]
See all the looks from the Carven Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Isabel Marant
“It might be her best collection!” [prylvi]
“Isabel Marant really has a POV and makes the girls look great. Why can’t Pucci or Cavalli make shapes like that? So simple and easy.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]
“Easy clothes for women to wear. I’ll take this over a lot of other collections this season.” [donyan]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Sacai
“It’s very Bouchra Jarrar, which makes me love it!! [IsabelMarantBoy]
“It’s really quite a captivating collection. Love the way some of the fabrics sit on the models, almost like armor.” [GoldenPetals]
“Love almost everything here! It’s hard for me to translate Sacai sometimes beyond the deconstructions, but this time they nailed it for me.” [Ihhbl]
See all the looks from the Sacai Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Akris
“Finally a tasteful and elegant collection is such a boring and underwhelming season. I usually like Albert Kriemler’s work and he remains underrated. One of the only collections to get frills right and the orange section is quite sublime as well.” [Fiercification]
“I like this. So sleek and easy on the eyes. There’s just something that seems so pure about this.” [Cocteau Stone]
“I like this so much! A relief to see this. A nice breeze through this collection – just the right timbre with pleasant moments. It’s so light. Bravo.” [TerraVera]
See all the looks from the Akris Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Duran Lantink
“This is flat as a pancake. What’s the content? Feels like a New York brand trying its hand at being avant-garde.” [Norden]
“It was interesting for a milli-second…” [90sfan]
“I want to know who is backing this brand? All the campaigns, shows every season, that kind of casting and all that press meanwhile you have 4-5 pieces on a rack in Dover Street which doesn’t seem to sell.” [NoInvite]
See all the looks from the Duran Lantink Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Stella McCartney
“This is so messy.” [youthinasia]
“It’s a bit all over the place indeed. I can’t see any cohesion in this collection. Oversized suits, chiffon dresses, leather dresses, t dresses, ripped pants/tops/dresses, lace, wool balloon tops, sequin, pearls. cut-ouPhew, that’s a lot to take.” [Valentine27]
“It’s like the Ann Taylor and Hervé Léger shows got mixed together.” [Irere]
See all the looks from the Stella McCartney Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Gabriela Hearst
“She should stay in NYFW where this collection belongs.” [JohannesL]
“”As a Uruguayan designer, Gabriela Hearst would have the ideal opportunity to put the traditional fabrics of her country and Latin America on the international map, but this set of things is a mix of meaningless things that, instead of making you raise an eyebrow, invites you to close both eyes.” [IndigoHomme]
See all the looks from the Gabriela Hearst Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
“Sad to say… I just don’t feel Vivienne anymore.” [bennyboy]
“Where’s the ‘punk’? How can you be anti-mainstream, when you create something so easily digestible? With a brand like VW I don’t even care if it’s try-hard or edgy or obnoxious, because that’s the entire point!” [Machinegumm]
“It was cleaner, more commercial. It lacked that defiant punk energy that Vivienne did so well.
Even the runway soundtrack was odd, it wasn’t Vivienne Westwood at all.” [jeremydante]
See all the looks from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Hermès
“Hermès womenswear is one of a kind! Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is doing an exceptional job! Great collection. Love the see-through knit. Stunning. Nobody does timeless luxury like them.” [imjustken]
“I really enjoyed the show! Loved the set and also the dynamic walks. I find the collection very appealing.” [Valentine27]
“This is absolutely sufficient for Hermès. It’s the quiet conservative high-quality luxury that its clientele is looking for. Hermès is the LAST fashion house that needs to be ‘fashion-forward’. The brand is already so mature and so well SET, it already has a reliable surefire formula – both commercially and creatively.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Hermès Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Vetements
“Dreadful.” [GoldenPetals]
“I couldn’t care less about the clothes. Pure trash.” [thiago]
“Wants to be Balenciaga, it ends being Philipp Plein.” [carla56]
See all the looks from the Vetements Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Victoria Beckham
“She’s desperately trying to be someone she clearly isn’t.” [helmutnotdead]
“Why is Victoria Beckham always trying so hard to be someone she isn’t? She should do a sexier, more glamorous take on minimalism and stop with the artsy nonsense.” [avonlea002]
“She could donate the money to the poor, instead of doing poor fashion every season.” [90sfan]
See all the looks from the Victoria Beckham Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Junya Watanabe
“I love this! Saw the first look and knew this was going to be a hit. Junya rarely disappoints.” [Machinegumm]
“The amount of ideas here is on a whole other level, very impressive.” [tatouejeremie]
“Absolute gold! zeroWhat a relief after the barrage-effortfort collections from all the other brands!” [amak]
See all the looks from the Junya Watanabe Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Ann Demeulemeester
“Another brand that makes no sense without its founder.” [avonlea002]
“Ann D mixed with ‘dumpster diving homeless people’. Stefano Gallici better correct course for next season, because this is NOT the direction this brand should go.” [Machinegumm]
“Ann was never ratty. Bohemian, yes, in the likes of Baudelaire perhaps but not ratty.” [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Ludovic de Saint Sernin
“His work is starting to grow on me. It’s well constructed, which isn’t something most of his peers can say.” [LadyJunon]
“Not even going to lie and probably will be put into tFS timeout, but … I am into it!” [Savatore]
“I think this is beautiful…” [thiago]
See all the looks from the Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Coperni
“Their shows have been so hyped and are always so… whelming? IDK.” [thenewclassic]
“How do you say ‘Stunt Queens’ in French?” [Jacque Marcel]
“So Kylie was obviously just there to make the show go viral?” [nationalsalt]
