Hits and Misses: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025
Paris is burning, with the Spring 2025 season of Paris Fashion Week in full swing. Running from September 23 until October 1, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’s jam-packed schedule grants us a total of 66 physical runway shows and 40 presentations.
Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025
Maria Grazia Chiuri was tasked with opening up Paris Fashion Week, with the first female creative director of Christian Dior looking to the women of the Amazon throughout history (in particular Diana, goddess of the hunt) for inspo. MGC enlisted Artist and archer Sagg Napoli to kick off the show, who shot arrows along the catwalk as models paraded athletic yet feminine silhouettes. It was soon time to head to the Saint Laurent HQ on Rue de Bellechasse, to check out Anthony Vaccarello’s tribute to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent himself, with the Belgian designer inspired by the late designer’s wardrobe. Models (including Bella Hadid) stormed the oval-shaped runway decked out in an array of oversized suits, trench coats, and bomber jackets.
Day three of Paris Fashion Week started off strong, with Nicolas Di Felice of Courrèges taking up the morning slot. Guests were spaced around a set with a gigantic ocean drum situated in the middle. Models emerged from backstage in Di Felice’s sleek and monochromatic lineup. Mid-day on September 25 and it was time for the industry to bare witness to the first Dries Van Noten show with out the revered Belgian designer at the helm. The Spring 2025 collection was crafted by the in-house design team in Antwerp, offering up boldly layered colors, fabrics, prints, and embroidery. Brightly-mixed patterns and the house’s signature chainmail were on full display at Julien Dossena’s Rabanne showcase. As night fell over the city of Paris on day three, Olivier Rousteing relied upon his essentials and signature pieces, from blazers with dramatic pointy shoulders to structured dresses with cinched waists at Balmain.
The fashion pack gathered to see Chemena Kamali’s highly-anticipated sophomore outing as Chloé creative director, who doubled down on the boho aesthetic and sought inspiration in the true essence of summer. Dramatic bangs and wide-shouldered, cinched waist dresses and blazers graced the runway at Mugler (designed by Casey Cadwallader), as the brand commemorates its 50th anniversary this year. Rick Owens returned to the Palais de Tokyo in Paris for a presentation of epic and otherworldly proportions while Daniel Roseberry once again brought his creative eye and innate flair for couture-level detailing to Schiaparelli.
The best part? There’s so much to look forward to, as we head into the second portion of Paris Fashion Week. Scroll further for theFashionSpot’s hits and misses (so far) from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025:
The Equal Number of Hits & Misses From Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025
HIT | Dries Van Noten
“Dries is in good hands. I liked the collection a lot, beautiful ephemeral vibes.” [Olaffo]
“The studio team should be proud. Love the colors, prints, textures and styling. They should just promote someone internally, who knows the language of Dries.” [j02215]
“Leave it to Dries Van Noten to hire a team that can design a strong collection without him. As someone who despises interim collections, I wouldn’t be mad if they just continued like this for the next few years.” [LadyJunon]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Rabanne
“Louis Vuitton by Nicholas Ghesquière but with chainmail embroideries and dresses.” [FashionPower]
“A total copy and paste from Nicolas Ghesquière. It could have been executed in a better way.” [badgalcrush]
“Definitely not his best. Some good ideas and I love the pastels, but the silhouettes are very strange. The shapes look dowdy and blobby.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Rabanne Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Saint Laurent
“Wow, at last Anthony Vaccarello expands his vocabulary. I did not believe he could do it. I think it’s the best collection of his tenure.” [yslforever]
“I can always count on AV to put on a good show. Obsessed with the jacquard in the middle section.” [IsabelMarantBoy]
“I think it’s a great direction. It makes good use of the YSL codes and there’s a sense of camp fun to it that’s basically non-existent in fashion anymore.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Courrèges
“Fashion straight from the morgue. Sad, lifeless, flat, colorless, and cold.” [IloveDiorHomme]
“I’m not feeling it. At this point of Nicolas Di Felice’s tenure, I feel like I’ve seen this collection one hundred times.” [helmutnotdead]
“Lazy. (Di Felice should push him elf beyond self-indulgence of his fandom for his fashion heroes ) and not enough development in fabrics colors and brand product offerings and the image is stale already. Being obsessed with the late 90s/early 00s minimalist gods does not equal a strong point of view.” [PDSFD]
See all the looks from the Courrèges Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Christian Dior
“There was nothing new here, even by Maria Grazia Chiuri’s standards. It’s basically everything that Maria has already shown previously. Confused as to why they felt the need to put on a show with this collection? Also, that archery component was the most awkward and bizarre thing ever. So random and what does it have to do with the history of Christian Dior?” [Frederic01]
“MGC is probably the most boring and unimaginative designer ever. Dear lord her shows make me feel sleepy.” [Creative]
“It’s bizarre and boring.” [reese06]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Mugler
“This is a good collection from Casey Cadwallader! Surprising to actually see some clothes for a summer season at Mugler. For what it’s worth, the spirit of Mugler is there.” [Lola701]
“This might be the most Mugler collection I’ve ever seen since they reanimated the label. The suit jackets are quite stunning.” [GoldenPetals]
“Those first looks are very strong. Those jackets with the pockets are really sharp as a knife.” [Norden]
See all the looks from the Mugler Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Balmain
“I can’t bring myself to dislike any of Olivier Rousteing’s work. There is something very honest and genuine in his creations. He is the embodiment of his work and I can see that it’s a very personal process for him. He is Balmain and it’s nice to see a brand with such longevity similar to Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.” [tourbillions]
“I think it’s one of his best collections in a while. The hourglass silhouette on the skirts is just gorgeous. Nobody else is producing stuff like this to be sold as RTW.” [Nimsay]
“I love how relaxed the whole thing felt, mostly through the presence of more flou and softer tones.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Balmain Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Ganni
“I can’t with this brand.” [Royal-Galliano]
“Can we please please please stop with the mesh polyester organza ALREADY!” [miumeow]
“The first look was fire, but the rest of the collection should be burnt.” [LadyJunon]
See all the looks from the Ganni Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Chloé
“I love it! This is Chloé at its inner sanctum!” [disco54]
“One of the best interpretations of Chloé I’ve seen in YEARS. Chemena was made for this position and it shows, all the girlies will go bananas for those baby doll and empire dresses (and don’t get me started on those pants).” [GERGIN]
“It’s so effective and desirable! Love love love.” [Ihhbl]
See all the looks from the Chloé Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Rick Owens
“I’m so tired of this.” [helmutnotdead]
“Rick’s out of ideas. I can’t believe the kiss heels are still on the runway.” [CincyCritic]
“It’s just a parade of variants of the same ideas Rick Owens has been making in the last years: the platform boots, the monster shoulders, and the ‘turd’ volumes. This feels like rejected versions of them all, condensed into one collection. The show was also in the same place, with the same fog machines, the same contact lenses worn by models, the same people throwing flower petals… the same everything.” [jeanclaude]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Issey Miyake
“This man is truly gifted. 10/10” [GivenchyAddict]
“Best of the season so far!” [Kanzai]
“Well executed volumes and playful silhouettes, that’s how you make fashion fun.” [philophile]
See all the looks from the Issey Miyake Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Loewe
“This was boring for being in your tenth year at Loewe.” [youthinasia]
“I thought the collection would never end. So boring and it seems JW Anderson wasn’t able to explore good concepts. I hated those volumes and prints. There was some good leather work and tailoring but meh…” [thiago]
“Very weak. I’m disappointed.” [ghostwriter10549]
See all the looks from the Loewe Spring 2025 collection.
HIT | Schiaparelli
“This looks pretty fabulous and desirable.” [TianCouture]
“I love it. Feels like his most ready-to-wear outing yet for the ready-to-wear line, which is good. Strong casting, too.” [Mr-Dale]
“I really love the oversized Couture Hoodies. I love the contre-emploi of things here. Everything seems to be an elevated version of something very casual. There’s nothing new but it feels somehow fresh and now. The fabrication is really exceptional. A lot can be said about Schiaparelli by Roseberry but the standards are at an all time high! The attention to details down to the buttons is deserving of an applause. It screams quality.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Schiaparelli Spring 2025 collection.
MISS | Acne Studios
“Temu Loewe.” [youthinasia]
“I will say this every time they present a collection: what happened to this brand is embarrassing. Years ago, this was a cool attainable brand, similar to A.P.C and Ami but somehow things went left and never came back to what they were. This mess looks no different.” [Yasouss]
“Complicated for the sake of being complicated.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Acne Studios Spring 2025 collection.
