Hits and Misses: New York Fashion Week Fall 2024
That’s a wrap on New York Fashion Week’s Fall 2024 season, with the 6-day event coming to an almighty close with Thom Browne’s return to the schedule following a brief hiatus.
Subsequent to the surprise doll-inspired showcase from Marc Jacobs prior to NYFW officially kicking off, the fashion pack looked toward Christian Siriano to kick-start the festivities. Held at the iconic Plaza hotel, Siriano welcomed us into his fantasy world and dialed up the glamour with a collection inspired by sci-fi movies. Peter Do was soon serving his sophomore Helmut Lang collection, unearthing and reimagining Lang’s Spring 2003 collection. Tommy Hilfiger is back – and wants us to dress to impress. The American designer’s first show in two years took place in the Grand Central Oyster Bar, located beneath the iconic New York train station. Models roamed the restaurant sporting Hilfiger’s tried and true classics, to a live performance from Jon Batiste.
Prabal Gurung created a sense of comfort through draped silhouettes and cozy fabrics while creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a collection for real-life women, with an array of pieces which transcend traditional season dressing – a minimalist dream of statement outwear. Catherine Holstein looked to craft a new wardrobe for the ultimate New York woman and elevated the viral mob wife trend to the max. The no-pants trend reigned supreme at Joseph Altuzarra’s 15th anniversary showcase celebration. Anna Sui looked to Agatha Christie for inspo this season, fittingly presented at The Strand bookshop. For his first collection stateside, Ludovic de Saint Sernin collaborated with The Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and paid homage to the late photographer’s chronicles of the 1970s BDSM scene.
Wes Gordon’s latest Carolina Herrera unveiling was inspired by the designer herself, resulting in monochromatic looks, glamorous gowns and floral motifs scattered throughout. There was no better way for Tory Burch to mark the 20th anniversary of her eponymous label, other than tinsel evening gowns, sheer ruffles and bursts of color. Michael Kors, for Fall 2024, juxtaposed the languid lingerie dressing of the 30s with the streamlined luxury of the 90s. In true Thom Browne fashion, the designer closed NYFW with a theatrical show, with models embodying different characters as if fallen from a storybook.
Needless to say, New York Fashion Week has been one for the books. Scroll further for the hits and misses of the season, according to theFashionSpot’s unfiltered forum members:
HIT | Michael Kors Collection
“I love the intimacy in showing in that space and I loved the bags!” [Lola701]
“MK really understands his customer. All of these pieces perfectly edited and constructed.” [Nimsay]
“Always get this instant sense of pure satisfaction whenever I witness a watch a Michael Kors show during NYFW. There’s always something so reassuring about his strong sense of self, this customer, his designs and there is always a very strong sense of wearabilty. This, for me, was a truly immaculate and streamlined collection.” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Michael Kors Collection Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | LaQuan Smith
“Dated and amateurish.” [GoldenPetals]
“It’s like a street hooker trying to be classy…” [jeanclaude]
“I saw some promise at the start but unfortunately the mixed bag of some good pieces with some horrible ones threw off the whole thing, He needs to get a quality control team as well as someone to help source fabrics.” [Urban Stylin]
See all the looks from the LaQuan Smith Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Carolina Herrera
“There’s ALWAYS time for the classics. This is so beautifully made. I love how AMERICAN it is.” [GoldenPetals]
“Very classic and to the point, perfectly made too.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Delightful, a total breath of fresh air from everything else we’re currently seeing during New York Fashion Week. This collection was just flawless from start to finish. There’s flow, there’s coherence, there’s elegance and refinement… the list goes on!” [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Carolina Herrera Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Tory Burch
“Those white tights…” [jeanclaude]
“At least it was a short presentation. These clothes are awful. That gulf blue leather skirt is criminal. That white clover print dress that changes to polka dot along with that white fringe coat is also criminal.” [Nimsay]
“I’m really confused by this direction for Tory Burch and the Burch woman. There are some decent jackets and coats in here, and some interesting co-or sets but I still don’t get ‘Tory Burch’ from this.” [Cocteau Stone]
See all the looks from the Tory Burch Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Ludovic de Saint Sernin
“It’s all just so… obvious. Nothing seductive about it honestly.” [TianCouture]
“Ludovic de Saint Sernin is so surface level and conceited it’s almost too funny. He needs to up the ante when it comes to their pattern cutting and designs. It’s been the exact same for a long time now. The same thing rehashed over and over again, and has gotten worse and more simplified over the years too.” [Cocteau Stone]
“Ludovic De Ain’t Serving.” [chinsumo]
See all the looks from the Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Altuzarra
“A very cohesive, modern and elegant collection. His inspiration from the Harlequin world is very subtle but also interesting to recognize and somewhat fun.” [WAVES]
“When he’s good, he’s GOOD. There’s something quintessentially New York about this. It reminds me of 80s/early 90s Clavin Klein.” [GoldenPetals]
“I thought I was watching The Row for a minute. Lovely, gentle show. I can see a lot of Perry Ellis in there. Also Alaïa’s Spring 2024 show casts a long shadow, especially in the extravagant use of buttons and pillbox hats but I rather enjoyed this.” [Dellone]
See all the looks from the Altuzarra Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Coach
“What a wasted opportunity, the toilet paper skirts are godawful. [disco54]
“Horrendous.” [Alejandra Isami]
“Stuart Vevers is just lazy now! Maybe he wanted the GAP job? It’s quite a mess.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Coach Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Jason Wu Collection
“It’s a superb collection, especially when compared to the rest of NYFW so far. Jason has set himself apart by continuing to focus on fabric development and the construction of the actual garments, instead of chasing after what’s considered cool. [THD96]
“The white dress on Vivienne Rohner is definitely the highlight of the week!” [helmutnotdead]
“It’s very beautiful, very well made, exquisite cut.” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Jason Wu Collection Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Khaite
“Khaite is always a NYFW favorite for me, Cate Holstein never disappoints. The strong sleeved cropped leather jacket in the first look is a dream, I want it so badly. Actually all the jackets were exquisite. It’s always such a joy to see these collections for someone with a minimalist heart.” [philophile]
“It’s minimalism, but it’s very moody, dramatic and romantic. It’s rare to find that in minimalism in today’s fashion landscape.” [LadyJunon]
“There’s a clear inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga but it’s a beautiful, modern and almost subversive homage. The set and mood was perfect.” [WAVES]
See all the looks from the Khaite Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Ulla Johnson
“Shes probably the best at NYFW. these clothes are unmistakably Ulla.” [Nimsay]
“Some lovely dresses and prints; a lot of this feels so elegant and wearable.” [Not Plain Jane]
“I always look forward to her collections, very effortless and unpretentious.” [Urban Stylin]
See all the looks from the Ulla Johnson Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Anna Sui
“Not even fashion. A collection of random clothes.” [Nimsay]
“I always see the odd few pieces and looks I like in Anna Sui collections, but never do I think I want or like it all. The styling is always too busy.” [Not Plain Jane]
“I think that customer base is ageing, and hence her business has somewhat faltered in recent years.” [Kennnnn]
See all the looks from the Anna Sui Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Proenza Schouler
“They’ve moved onto copying Yohji Yamamoto to Helmut Lang now.” [LadyJunon]
“The bleakness of ripping off someone… be it Phoebe Philo or be it Helmut Lang now. Tragic.” [90sFan]
“This collection is pure nonsense. Their lack of identity is criminal.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Proenza Schouler Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Eckhaus Latta
“Some of that, no wait, all of that knitwear is so ugly.” [youthinasia]
“Not very strong, but it’s fine although didn’t require a runway presentation. A lookbook would have been fine enough. Really bland colors and the cuts are pretty mundane.” [Cocteau Stone]
“I remember Eckhaus Latta were all the rage about 6 years ago, inside the more ‘less mainstream’ and more hypebeast-y crowd. No idea who is this brand for these days.” [dontbeadrag]
See all the looks from the Eckhaus Latta Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Tommy Hilfiger
“I like this, very private American university chic.” [disco54]
“It’s wearable… with a lot of preppy campus classics.” [Not Plain Jane]
“It’s a good collection! Stylish, fresh, wearable and timeless. Maybe it’s time for Americans to have actually more respect for Tommy Hilfiger, who can design a coat with a shape, a decent shoulder, pants that falls perfectly and flatter the body…” [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Prabal Gurung
“He does not understand volumes. It feels like someone with very bad voice trying to sing opera…” [jeanclaude]
“Why does nothing fit properly? Whose body are these clothes flattering? Are the last dresses poor versions of Olivier Theyskens?” [tourbillions]
“Prabal Gurung wouldn’t know good taste even if it smacked him across the head.” [lookatme]
See all the looks from the Prabal Gurung Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Christian Siriano
“New York fashion week does NOT need this person.” [GoldenPetals]
“His pattern making always confuses me. I understand that certain designs and shapes need a waste seam. That’s a no-brainer, but the way he goes about it just always pisses me off. So visually obtrusive.” [Cocteau Stone]
“He has been in the business for so long, but the cut and construction of his clothes is still very poor. He should have bought the archive from Zac Posen and copied the patterns.” [JohannesL]
See all the looks from the Christian Siriano Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Helmut Lang
“This didn’t need a show.” [tourbillions]
“The essence of Helmut Lang : BEING EFFORTLESS. The essence of Peter Do : TRYING HARD. It ain’t a match darling. Divorce will happen soon.” [IloveDiorHomme]
“I just hope the real Helmut Lang never sees any of this, what an insult to his work.” [liberty33r1b]
See all the looks from the Helmut Lang Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Luar
“What an odd collection. This stuff is really well made but is absolutely dreadful. Those exploded coogie sweaters with a watch necklace is so 2008. The embossed ostrich skirt is interesting but shouldve been done in a wool. More dated looks; showing the thighs. Lots of pleather looking material. Overall its not great.” [Nimsay]
It’s awkward. and out of touch. the bad proportions and the fluffy boots mixed with the lace throws the whole thing off.” [TerraVera]
“Absolutely not. I don’t care how well-constructed this is, it’s contrived. The silhouettes and volumes are DERANGED.” [GoldenPetals]
See all the looks from the Luar Fall 2024 collection.
MISS | Gabriela Hearst
“Ugly shapes and cheap looking fabric. It’s easy as hell to be a fashion designer nowadays!” [Alquimista]
“This collection lacks substance, even for Gabriela’s standards. The last two looks are completely out of place.” [perhydrol]
“A lot of very out-of-date ideas here. That knit dress with the holes is giving Amazon.” [Nimsay]
See all the looks from the Gabriela Hearst Fall 2024 collection.
HIT | Thom Browne
“I love all the hidden animal prints and ‘juvenile’ prints behind his super seriously styled looks.” [tourbillions]
“He can be so heavily referential and still so unique and fantastic! I absolutely love this side of fashion and I appreciate him so much for this! Everything is perfectly constructed, cut, layered – so good. I’ll say it again: this is the man who should be Chanel’s creative designer.” [WAVES]
“I always enjoy Thom Browne collections and this is no exception. It all feels cluttered and avant garde but when you look carefully you see a story.” [Urban Stylin]
See all the looks from the Thom Browne Fall 2024 collection.
